University of Alaska Fairbanks SCHOOL OF FISHERIES AND OCEAN SCIENCES  
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For Prospective Students

Housing & Lifestyle

By Amanda Byrd, GPMSL student

Fairbanks

Fairbanks often differs considerably from what most people expect prior to their arrival. Contrary to portrayals on television (such as Northern Exposure), Fairbanks is not a vast wilderness with wild animals running through it (for the most part, anyway), though a short drive in any direction will take you to wilderness. Instead, it is a fairly typical city: larger than some, smaller than others. You can find many of the conveniences you would expect to find in a city of its size in the lower 48. Fairbanks has fast food chains, national department and discount stores (Sam’s Club, Home Depot, and Walmart), and restaurants. In addition to the many taxidermy shops, we have a few Chinese restaurants, a few Italian restaurants, five Thai restaurants, a Regal 16 screen movie theater, sporting goods stores, and the list goes on. The point is we have many of the stores that people in the lower 48 have become accustomed to.

Juneau

Juneau is the State Capital located in Southeast Alaska and has all of the mod cons. However, there is no road out of Juneau, and ferry and air travel are the only options. There is a great deal to see and do in Juneau, so leaving should not be a priority. The Tongass Rainforest climate provides Juneau with lush terrain and vibrant wildflowers. Most students live in apartments or houses and rent starts at around $500 a month for an apartment, but sharing can be a lot cheaper.

Kodiak

The FITC campus of SFOS is located in Kodiak, 250 air miles from Anchorage on the second largest Island in the USA. FITC is located a stones throw away from the water and allows for great access to the ocean. Sea kayaking and even surfing are some of the water sports in Kodiak. There is also the thick forested land on the island with the famed Kodiak brown bears. Salmon and halibut fishing are popular summer activities along with kayaking. Grocery items are more expensive in Kodiak and there is not as much choice as everything must be flown in or arrive by ship.

Cost of Living

The cost of living in Fairbanks is thought to be high, primarily because of the expense of shipping. However, perspectives vary. Fairbanks prices are very similar to Long Island, NY, but expensive compared to those in Charlottesville, VA. It is possible to live here at varying levels of comfort, solely on a stipend if you budget your funds. Grocery bills vary from person to person, depending on what they eat and where they shop. In general, monthly grocery bills begin around $100. For comparison, milk is generally around $3.50-$4.00 a gallon, bread is around $1.79-$2.89, and soup is around $1.10. Noodles can be purchased for 5/$1.00 during sales. As far as other expenses go, gas prices range $1.80-$2.00/gallon, theater movies are $8.50 ($5.50 on cheap night), rental movies are around $3.75, and dining out averages $20.00.

Banking

Checks are accepted almost anywhere in Fairbanks (and in Alaska in general). Photo identification is required, usually a drivers license (preferably Alaskan), and a phone number. Plan to switch your bank accounts to a local bank or credit union as soon as possible after your arrival. A Northern Schools Federal Credit Union branch is located in the Wood Center on lower campus.

Accommodation

It is a good idea to have a place to stay when you first arrive in Fairbanks. Many new students get a room in the dorms or stay at their advisor’s house. Most likely, if you get in touch with some of the grad students before you arrive, we can arrange for some bed/couch/floor space for you. In addition, we can try to arrange to have someone meet you at the airport upon your arrival. Phone numbers or email addresses for grad students can be obtained from your advisor or Christina Neumann (Academic Coordinator). Please take the occasion to get in touch with one or more of us, so we can help you get set up. If you would rather stay in a hotel/motel, there are several in Fairbanks.

Finding a place to live in Fairbanks can be tricky, but it isn't impossible. You will want to make arrangements as soon as you can. Graduate students live in a variety of accommodations: a dorm room, a room in someone's house, an apartment, or a cabin. Cabins are often the cheapest form of accommodation, and they also allow you to get the “Alaska Experience”. Look in the local paper and on bulletin boards around campus and town. Prices range from $300 to $600 a month with the average being $450. Expect there to be no running water, oftentimes there will be a loft to sleep in and a rustic kitchen. Most people have a few 5 gallon water jugs and haul water from either Water Wagon (3c/gallon) in town or Fox Spring. Pets are often allowed on approval (as long as you don’t have a dog team). Cabin dwelling is popular, as the least expensive way to live. You should go into this expecting no running water and no indoor plumbing. This is not as harsh as it sounds. You haul water from the university or a local Laundromat, shower facilities are available in several buildings on campus, and using the outhouse provides great opportunities to see the Northern Lights. Most cabins have electricity. Heat is derived from a wood or fuel oil stove, and occasionally electricity.

The listings in the classifieds may give you an idea of what you can expect in terms of housing and other things. Be forewarned! Good housing vacancies are filled extremely quickly, as is true at most universities. Generally, there are more vacancies in May than there are in September. Don’t get too discouraged. Just keep your eyes open and realize that one semester in a less than ideal location is merely an opportunity to seek out a prime spot. Housesitting is a good option for temporary accommodations.

Weather

Now that you have an idea of what sort of place to expect, let’s discuss the weather. As you might know, Alaska is the “Land of the Midnight Sun”. In Fairbanks, the number of daylight hours varies from about 21 hours in June to about 3 hours in December. Winter is often long, usually lasting from early October through April. Spring and fall are virtually non-existent, lasting only a couple of weeks, often in September and May. And summer always feels a lot shorter than it really is.

Temperatures range from an occasional bitter -60°F during the coldest, darkest winter months to well into the sweltering 90°'s during the daylight-filled summer months. However, more typical extreme temperatures lie around -30°F in the winter and the upper 80°’s in the summer. Interior Alaska is so dry that it is likened to an arctic desert and UAF is situated to receive very little wind. So, it is a dry cold rather than the wet cold you would find in Minnesota.

Being prepared for both of these extremes is a must. When it is -30°F or colder, you will want to have the warmest clothes on. Frostbite is a real danger, but can be easily avoided with simple common sense. Bunny boots (military issue pressurized boots), Sorels (pac-type boots with wool felt liners), or similar types of footwear are highly recommended, although you can survive without them. Some people adjust to the weather behaviorally by spending shorter periods of time outdoors and wearing hiking boots with two pairs of warm socks. However, this is not advisable in extreme weather. A very warm arctic parka is a necessity, as well as a thick wool hat, a scarf, wool socks, and heavy long underwear. Mittens are preferable, as they provide more warmth for your fingers than do gloves. These items can be purchased here in Fairbanks, but if you already have them, then you can save money by bringing them with you. Shopping at Big Rays and The Prospector is the best place for warm weather gear. Big Rays is locally owned, and a huge range of great priced boots and clothes. The Prospector is the best place for gloves.

When it warms up you don't want to be stuck wearing all these heavy clothes, so bring summer and spring clothes as well. You can expect to be wearing shorts once temperatures reach 45-50° F. This may sound absurd to you now, but it's true. The vast range of temperatures requires you to be prepared for both extremes and everything in between. Oh, and don’t forget the bug spray. The mosquitoes are as big as they say.

Driving

The bitter cold wreaks havoc on other things as well, especially vehicles. If you are planning to bring one, you will need to have it "winterized" once you get up here. This entails the installation of heating pads on the engine block, the oil pan, and the battery. These are all hooked into a plug that generally hangs out of the front grill. It is a necessity to plug your vehicle into an electrical outlet when the temperature is below -20°F to keep the engine from freezing. The fluids in the engine will have to be adjusted to those capable of resisting freezing. A frozen engine means big bucks for repairs. Good snow tires are essential, because only the main roads receive reliable plowing, and many back roads almost never get plowed. Some people have studded tires or carry chains. If you are thinking of living out of town, 4-wheel drive is invaluable. As far as expense goes, you should expect to spend AT LEAST $350 on all of this, without the tires. There is no way you can do without winterization if you plan to drive during the winter.

Studded tires or snow tires are strongly suggested for winter driving. The icy roads can get very slippery. Many people have two sets of tires and swap the tires for the two seasons.

Alternative Transport

If you do not have a car or truck, you still have a couple of options available to you. Bicycling is a very good possibility, even in the winter months, with the proper gear and information. Winter cycling workshops are offered at sporting goods stores around Fairbanks. Most of Fairbanks is easily reached by bicycle. Compared to walking, biking is a lot quicker, which is a relief in -40° weather. UAF is located on a small hill, but the surrounding landscape is mostly flat. Most graduate students prefer mountain bikes, because ten speeds do not have enough traction in the winter. Several stores in town sell mountain bikes ranging from the relatively inexpensive ($350 on sale) to the deluxe model ($1,000+). You may be able to find one even cheaper at a garage sale.

Cycling in the winter can be hazardous. Great care needs to be taken, especially when it’s dark and the roads are icy. Recently, Alaska passed a law requiring bikers to have head and taillights on their bicycles. Cyclists often wear many reflectors on their person and on their bicycles. A helmet is essential, as is proper attire. The wind chill can be very cold if you are not dressed properly.

If you do not have a car or a bike, you are still in business. Other alternatives for transportation are walking, carpooling, or cross-country skiing. The University of Alaska has some of the best cross-country ski trails in the U.S. In addition, Fairbanks has a public bus system that covers a wide area of Fairbanks. There are two bus lines that cover the two major areas of Fairbanks. They stop at UAF, downtown, at most of the major shopping plazas, and run through the more populated neighborhoods. The longest ride is one hour from UAF to the opposite side of town. Buses run Monday through Friday from 6:00 am until 7:30 pm or so, depending on where you live and where you want to go. Limited service is available on Saturday. Schedules can be obtained at the bus terminal or on campus at the information desk in Wood Center. Student tokens are available at Wood Center. You can also purchase a monthly pass for unlimited rides at Wood Center or the bus terminal.

There are a number of "big events" that occur throughout the school year that are sanctioned by the university. These include Starvation Gulch, Festival of Native Arts, and Melt Down Weekend. Spring break is generally in mid-March, specific dates can be found in the literature you will be sent by the graduate school.

Travel from Alaska

As you have probably discovered, transportation to and from Alaska is expensive. Unfortunately, there is almost no way around this. You can expect to pay at least $500 to get from Fairbanks to Seattle, WA (you can get tickets from $200 each way sometimes). Tickets from Juneau are often cheaper. Tickets to the East Coast often range in the upper $700. Alaska Airlines fly into and out of Fairbanks, Juneau and Kodiak on a regular and reliable basis (though Kodiak is weather permitting). Northwest Airlines has seasonal flights beginning early Summer thru Late Fall to Fairbanks. There are good fares available if you watch for them, especially in the off-season months. Check the Alaska Airline website on Tuesdays for web specials and in October for PFD specials (book that nice trip to Mexico or Hawaii for January).

What to do in your spare time

Ski on the beautiful UAF trails right from your back door (literally). The trails are groomed for skate skiing and classical and are perfect for a leisurely ski or a hard workout. Ski equipment is available at many stores in town including Raven Cross-country, Play-it-Again-Sports and Beaver Sports. Also ski rental is very affordable at Outdoor Adventures (www.uaf.edu/outdoor/) on lower campus in the Wood Center. This organization is run for students, staff and affiliates and provides equipment rentals and amazing Alaskan trips. Trips range from 1day hikes, bike trips or whitewater rafting, to weeklong sea kayaking in Prince William Sound or hiking in the Brooks Range. The Pub on campus is a great venue for live music, wine and beer tasting, movies and a whole lot more, and it is smoke free, (remember you must be 21 years to enter)! Student activities organizes events for students and through them you will meet a wide range of students and partake in social events.

The UAF trails also cater for walkers, snowshoers and dogs. There is a Pooch Loop, which is around 1 mile, and weaves through the ski trails.

On weekends in winter, Alaska Dog Mushers Association (www.sleddog.org/) holds sled dog races at Mushers Hall on Farmers Loop (5 miles from campus). This is a spectator sport and you may even be asked to help in holding the sleds or dogs before the races.

Chena Hot Springs is 50miles along Chena Hot Springs Road. This a great place to visit after a backpacking, ski, or hiking trip.


(Photos from Outdoor Adventures, 2004)

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